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Article: Yohji Yamamoto

Abbigliamento

Yohji Yamamoto

A pioneer of a revolutionary and avant-garde approach to dressmaking that, rather than emphatically reproducing the female body, prioritizes the experimentation with geometries, cuts, and asymmetrical seams, Yohji Yamamoto has managed to conceive and elevate his craft into a full-fledged aesthetic and artistic manifestation.

Considering the definition of a personal stylistic identity a priority, his style, compared to that of other exponents of the so-called “Japanese school”, tends to remain stable and recognizable throughout the alternation of collections. Elements of change and innovation, while equally necessary, are introduced within an intellectual journey that continually interprets and reworks the solicitations and stimuli derived from the reality in which he is immersed. Urban spaces of enormous contemporary metropolises. An urgent and hyper-technological modernity. Powerful and deep-rooted Japanese traditions. These are the emotional and reflective sources of Yamamoto’s poetics. The result is a style that we could define as “abstract haute couture”, so conceptual is the relationship between form and creation, between idea and work, and, finally, so precise is the sartorial gesture.

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The materials, when not encountering astonishing combinations resulting from the most ancient and secret Japanese textile techniques, are exceptional wool gabardines or superb crêpe de Chine. Little is ever granted to color, which is deliberately sacrificed in favor of formal complexity and the concentrated attention paid to the bold paths of sewing. Far beyond its original function, every garment acquires the solidity of a rigorous architecture to be worn, becoming a structure of an externalized interiority that is made public and, for this reason, requires and invokes high doses of understanding and awareness.

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