A Rei Kawakubo favourite and still produced by the Comme des Garçons Maison, in the course of time Junya Watanabe was able to become emancipated from the most radical interpreter of modern fashion, by affirming a clearly recognizable style of his own. He is defined as a cyber-punkdesigner, due to the frequent use of industrial material and powerful evocation of post-modern literary climate, underlined by visionary hairdos and hats, masks that are always present in his fashion shows.

In his shows, sounds and spaces contribute to describe Junya Watanabe clothes as the natural costumes of a post-industrial society, where clothes come from recycling disused carcasses that are constantly evolving and adapting. There might be plexiglass plates that are applied to skirts and throws, jeans, fringes, military fabric or more poetic origami for scarves and shawls, or rather laces and male clothes; everything is accurately assembled and transformed into something else. During this sophisticated process of decomposing and recomposing different materials and cultural suggestions, Junya Watanabe does not forget to highlight the sensuality of the female body, which is often squeezed by the thin pleats of Imperial style bustiers. But the fascinating woman created by the futuristic Watanabe’s clothes is always strong and determined, a sort of tough and hard-fighting survivor of the scariest environmental and social revolutions.




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