This
piece was thinked to be published in a kind of magazine such as ELLE
UK, one of the best fashion magazine, where articles used to talk about
fashion differently from the ordinary publications. It is a magazine
that keeps an eye on the most innovative trends and on the most
particulare personalities. This piece could be relevant for the reader
to see how in Italy the attention is not focused only on the Italian
fashion that everybody knows, but it is possible to find “fashion researchers” that really believe that fashion is not only buisness but, first of all, a non-stop innovation-seeking.
The Radical Fashion Shop
Orlando
Milan has always believed that, in order to dress someone's body, you
first have to dress his mind. This is one of the first things you should
know when you visit his shop in Padua. IVO
MILAN is located in the central Via Santa Lucia in a striking
Romanesque house, currently the oldest civil standing building in town;
even a quick first glance at the window reveals that this is no ordinary
shop: dim lights illuminate a precious dress and suddenly it feels like
being in a museum admiring a scuplture in a casket. The way that the
windows are settled, the use of the lights, the mixture of the colours
for the background, used to enhance the shapes and the shades of
fabrics, are all clues that this is no mere fashion, as the attention is
drawn to the art that springs from fashion.
In 1945 Ivo Milan, Orlando's father, following his family tradition, opened his fabrics shop, manufactured
clothes and named it after himself to distinguish it from his brothers'
businesses which bore the same family name. In 1967 Orlando joined the
father's company as a co-worker, and after his death, started the long
work that made IVO MILAN the shop that is known nowadays. So this is
supposed to be a traditional family-run business, where family values
have gone from generation to generation and time seems to stand still.
But Orlando Milan is not of this opinion: “Through these years we have
always tried to maintain the values that my father taught me, the
importance of the manufacture and the indispensable quality of the
fabrics, but nowadays the guidelines of the shop are something new that I
have built during this forty years of experience inside the fashion
industry.”
Milan's
experience is a long path that has experimented various forms of
fashion and arts, through the first Versace and Armani collections at
the end of the 70's (IVO MILAN was one of the first shops in Italy that
started to sell these brands) to Japanese fashion, which in the last
twenty years has distinguished this retailer from the others. Key brands
that make this shop unique in its kind are Yojhi Yamamoto, Junya
Watanabe, Issey Miyake, Rick Owens, Martin Margiela, Shu Moriyama, Jun
Takhashi and Comme Des Garçons, the brand that best embodies the
philosophy of the shop. Rei Kawakubo is a fervid supporter of trying to
know what “has never been seen before”, and this is the most important
guideline that Mr Milan wants his shop to follow: nothing must
be mass-produced and everything must be different from what one usually
sees. This principle is applied to everything that concerns the shop,
from its furniture to the selection process that goes on behind the
displaying of clothes. In fact, the limited production and circulation
of the labels sold in the shop exists alongside a specific principle
which determines how to choose everything that will be sold. “This
principle is one which takes into account the requirements of a very
well-educated, niche Paduan clientele, whose taste has not been shaped
by the influences of media and television, and whose interests lie in
those very special purchases - in authentically creative ones, if not in
ones
with a strong artistic value” says the shop owner.
So
the customers have to be open-minded and be endowed with a marked
inclination for artistic values to understand IVO MILAN's fashion.
Radical Fashion, as Mr Milan used to call it. This name has been adopted
after the Radical Fashion Exhibition at the Victoria & Albert
Museum in 2002, where the designers that Orlando Milan loves the most
and has chosen to sell, were displayed in a collective exhibition, from
Yojhi Yamamoto to Comme des Garçons. “This exhibition really reflects my
idea of fashion and these designers are, to me, the real essence of
this concept.” he states. “They
are “radical” in the full sense of the word: they are “revolutionary”
and they are “rooted” in the art. They cut through ideas as well as
fabric. Challenging established views, they have committed their lives
to seeking ever more demanding expressions of “beauty”, with diverse and
often provocative results”.
But which is his conception of beauty? Again, the inspiration comes from Japan: “The guideline that always has inspired me comes from the Japanese concept of beauty, that is “the aesthetics of imperfection” (wabi-sabi).
I am against the logic of homologation and of display of wealth that
inspires great European fashion, especially in these last years. I
prefer to give my customers the possibility to portray themselves
through an “understatement style” or with an idea-dress that draws the attention to the originality and to the independent spirit of the person wearing it.”
For
IVO MILAN, fashion is something far from the conventional concept that
everybody is accustomed to. First and foremost, fashion is research, is
an exploration of the unknown. Here ideas come first, the most
interesting part of a dress is not how it was made but why.
What is it that lays behind the creation? How can a designer elaborate
an idea and transform it into something that everybody can wear? These
are only a few of the questions that Mr Milan wants customers to ask
themselves as they wander around the shop. Because the most important
thing is not to sell a dress but to make customers aware of what they
are going to buy, something that stands over the trends, something that
will rest forever as a unique work of art. And how is it possible to
make the right choice, to find the piece that will fit perfectly and
will be always with you? “Know yourself and let the dress be simply a
continuation of your person.”